Trasimeno lake. Between silence and the Middle Ages

Who I am
Martí Micolau

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A hilly amphitheater that frames its surface, an extension that sweeps between parks and villages, making it the largest lake. extended of peninsular Italy. ? the Trasimeno, a picturesque stretch of water that can? boast even three disputed hypotheses on its origin.
Lake Trasimeno? certainly one of the many places where time is never enough to be able to visit it entirely.

1 day

From a comfortable position near Panicale, one of the most? famous in Italy, we stay in an apartment whose name seems to be already? the symbol of ancient residences. "La Pietraia". Looking out the windows and immersed in the green of the surrounding olive trees, the panorama does not fail to instill an enchanting jolt in our chest and we remain for an unspecified time to lose ourselves in its infinite space filled with mountains, woods and shores of variegated colors.
The sun is hot on this summer day and a cool restaurant grotto offers a welcome respite. This is "Il Masolino", a place of refreshment that welcomes us to Panicale and pleasantly soothes our stomachs also thanks to the courtesy of those who work there. After the hearty meal based on typical dishes, we are offered the possibility? to enter the cave of the restaurant and better understand its history, made up of papal secrets discussed inside by the bishops of the 1300s.
Intriguing? the particularity? sound of its construction, made in such a way that you can hear every more? small noise that comes from the street but nothing of that? which is said to come out of that ravine inside.
Leaving the village, the plots of who knows? what bold thoughts may have been trapped within its walls and we face the first stage. Castiglione del lago. One of the many small municipalities that overlook the stretch of water that gives life to the valley.
Small streets with stone houses that are protected by the old fortress with an adjoining ancient residence of the Marquis of Della Corgna.
? it is easy to get lost admiring the local craftsmanship and in the rooms of the Palazzo della Corgna, the only small "palace" existing in Umbria, we can admire the beautiful frescoed rooms by Pomarancio and Salvio Savini.
The first day ends with our footsteps resonating in the Rocca del Leone, whose triangular tower, commissioned by Frederick II of Sweden,? connected to the ducal palace by a suggestive stone walkway with slits that allow you to bask in the enchantment of the whole Trasimeno lake.
As we leave the village,
the colors of a sunset that seems painted by ancient hands greet the disappearance of our first day.
The night and its silence are a clear invitation to prepare for the discoveries of the second day.

2 day

The sunrise ? already? arose for a while and We returned to Castiglione del Lago to embark on a panoramic tour of the lake with arrival in one of the three small natural promontories of land that emerge from the waters.
Sprays of foam touch the boat on which we are to reach Isola Maggiore.
Half an hour of navigation is a wonderful opportunity to feel all the serenity? of a placid lake whose shores teem with life. Indigo predominates inside our pupils, illuminating a landscape that is anything but monotonous. The island, on the other hand,? all a succession of dirt roads between olive trees, holm oaks, pines and poplars. A true taste of pure chlorophyll and a small place to cool off from the beating summer sun. Beyond a small town with various restaurants, you climb up on promontories until you reach the church and the convent wanted by the Franciscan friars in memory of the period in which Saint Francis of Assisi stopped? in solitude for long days to meditate. Centuries more? later, the Marquis Giacinto Guglielmi of Civitavecchia, acquired? the Franciscan convent and the adjoining church, to transform it into a private castle which, unfortunately, following the restoration works never completed, lies on that mixture of grass and earth in a total state of abandonment, like a forgotten giant.
Too much tourism makes it inaccessible to eat at the restaurant without having booked and we opt for a wooden structure near the place where we landed. ? our opportunity? to taste the specialties? local street food.
While hot tourists bathe ankles and knees diving from the bathing shores, we continue the journey among the few houses of the town. A tiny village of just about 15 souls, made up of hoteliers, restaurateurs and fishermen. Life seems to flow slowly among the stones that make up the high walls of the houses and, perhaps, the many messages that can be read on plaques hanging on the sides of the doors, were created on purpose to make the visitor understand the thoughts of the inhabitants precisely on this their somewhat isolated way of life.
This little taste of Trasimeno comes like this? at the end, leaving us with the certainty of wanting to return. Almost as if inviting us back into its waters, the lake gives us yet another amazing sunset just as we arrive at our apartment in Panicale.
Water, earth and sky have never stopped making us feel their peace, offering us a feeling that should always be carried with us? in every place: feeling in symbiosis.

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