My husband Andrea and I, together with our 12-year-old daughter, chose this destination because it satisfied everyone's wishes. Sea and wild nature for Diana, but also mountains to explore inside.
We arm ourselves with a new tent (6 places), and a map of the island to plan our tour of the island in advance, considering stops for 2-3 nights both in camping and in B&B.
In reality? we do not book any accommodation except the first night and of course we book the ferry.
So on Sunday 21st July from Porcia (Pordenone) we are ready to leave with our Toyota Land Cruiser full wheelbase and we beaming full of good expectations.
We are only sorry to leave our dachshund with our grandmother who always accompanies us, but this year she remains to rest.
21 JULY: Livorno-Bastia ferry trip
After a smooth drive of about 4 hours from Pordenone to Livorno, we wait for the ferry in line in Livorno.
The journey is a bit boring but probably due to the desire to arrive at the destination as soon as possible.
As soon as we disembark we head towards our first stop: B&B Casale Lucrezia, which is located in the east part of the finger.
The journey is already spectacular, we pass charming villages and breathtaking views of the sea and of half-hidden coves and we would already want to stop, but we prefer to arrive as soon as possible to our destination.
After about an hour of winding road (especially in the last inner section), we reach Carbonacce, a ruined village in the middle of the hills. The first impression is not the best; in this ghost town there is only this very nice B&B with a few rather spacious and well renovated rooms. Breakfast is served on a terrace overlooking the rooftops and the sea in the distance.
Leaving your luggage, we recommend a place to eat; by car we make a short distance, about 10 minutes of ups and downs, to get to the BAR PIZZERIA DA TONI in the square of Luri. We sit outside, the atmosphere is from other times and you really feel the French atmosphere. At first impression we will not have given anything to this bar, but we ate really well and the dishes were well presented (it should be noted that it is not possible to pay with an ATM).
Accommodation: B&B da Lucrezia (Carbonecce) rating 6,5
Dinner: BAR PIZZERIA DA TONI (Luri) vote 7-
22 JULY: finger tour and stop at ILE ROUSSE
We leave the B&B and head towards the east coast. First stop in Maciniaggio; we let ourselves be tempted in a 3-pants bakery that we will eat for lunch by the sea. Let's start in search of the much declaimed Tamarone Beach. Supported by google maps, we take a dirt road, pass a camping site and reach the parking lot of a bar. Luckily we have an off-road vehicle because the road is sandy and with ups and downs. There are some people walking full of things but I don't recommend it!
Honestly we are a little disappointed because the shore is completely covered by algae.
Too bad because the sea at 2-3 meters from the shore is clear. There are many people in the water but we prefer to walk the path of the customs officer to find a better and less crowded place.
Adjacent to the bar there is a map that illustrates the path that winds through the hills to the tip. There are many people who walk under the sun, it's hot ... and the path is at times a bit bumpy and exposed (I recommend shoes with rubber soles), but with a unique view !! Even the beach in front of the Finocchiarola islands is covered with algae, we continue the path and after 40 minutes of walking we opt for a hidden cove of pebbles and dive immediately.
We enjoy this little place with its splendid water for a while, other people begin to arrive, so after eating the trousers, vs 13 we decide to resume the journey.
The DITO tour awaits us to then arrive in Ille Rousse to find a campsite.
The road is all curves, sometimes even dangerous, very narrow and overhanging the sea; we pass incredible landscapes and stop a couple of times to take photos to immortalize the extraordinary views. We also stop at NONZA for a cool drink. We photograph the famous black beach from above and climb the tower from 1768. There are also public baths.
We leave why? the journey is still very long, in fact we don't arrive before 19pm at the LES OLIVIERS CAMPSITE in L'Ile-Rousse. With difficulty we find a pitch for the tent, unfortunately only the next day we understand why? she was free; it was not very shady and in broad daylight the heat was almost unbearable. The camp was almost full and the tourists were mostly foreigners and few with tents. Tired we go to sleep at 22pm.
Baie del Tamarone beach (in front of the bar): 5,5 rating
Baie del Tamarone beach (cove along the path of the customs officer): 7
23 JULY: relaxing day at the campsite
We allow ourselves a day of full relaxation.
The rocky beach can be reached on foot from inside the campsite, crossing the railway tracks and the Mediterranean scrub. We play around for a while on the rocks, but it's very hot and we have no umbrella. So we go back to the tent and have a quick lunch. After an afternoon siesta vs 15pm we always go down from the campsite vs left to reach a bay with lonely rocks and spectacular water. We dive in and we are satisfied seeing even some fish.
For dinner we head towards CALVI. We eat pizza on the tables of a takeaway truck. Eatable pizza even if they put Emmenthal instead of mozzarella !!
Calvi deserves is a very lively town in the evening, both in the port area, the part of the narrow streets with the shops and going up to the castle there is an incredible view over the city. There is a large paid parking lot on the outskirts of the city.
Accommodation: LES OLIVIERS CAMPING (Ile-Rousse) rating 6,5 (not always clean)
JULY 24: Desert des Agriates - LOTU and SALECCIA beach
Today we face the Desert des Agriates, 13 km of dirt road.
The initial idea was to travel the road by mountain bike, but with the heat of these days we will never make it.
Luckily we decide to go by car: we take advantage of our Toyota Land Cruiser, which behaves very well!
The dirt road starts from CASTA, about 40min. drive from the campsite.
We decide to go to LOTU beach, and it takes us about 50min. from CASTA.
We meet several 4x4 shuttles that accompany tourists and some cars that proceed very slowly between the very bumpy paths and with several holes (honestly I do not recommend this for cars).
We park in an open space close to the ban. We set out on foot, about 800mt, along a pond (a bit putrid). Lotu beach is very beautiful, but also crowded and the shore is covered with seaweed!
We look for some shade among the rocks and we play around until about 15pm.
We decide to also see the beach of SALECCIA; it's about 15min by car even if the direction is not very visible.
There is a bar and, after having taken some icicles, we take the path to the beach; the sand is white, the sea is turquoise and there are no algae !! We only have time to cool off and go back to the campsite.
After cooking some brochette, we conclude the evening in the center of Ille Rousse. Even here it is crowded with rides, shops and tourists walking in the port.
LOTU beach: grade 6 (because it is crowded and full of algae)
SALECCIA beach: vote 7
25 JULY: transfer to CORTE
We disassemble the tent and leave the campsite, the next COURT stop where we booked an apartment for 1 night. We have breakfast in a boulangerie before leaving Ille Rousse.
The road to Corte is wide and flowing.
At 12 we arrive and find a place to eat; we have lunch at U MUSEU.
After having rested a little from the summer heat in the apartment, we go out in the late afternoon to explore the VALLE DELLA RESTONICA. We park in the information office and, after crossing the wooden bridge, we set out on the botanical path. The stream forms spectacular pools of water that look like swimming pools.
We are sorry to leave them but we return to the center of Corte and admire the view from the Belvedere; we have dinner at the open air restaurant Mantei Maova right in the staircase leading to the Belvedere.
We take a walk in the center, silent streets with little life.
We go back to the apartment.
Lunch: U MUSEU (Rampe Ribanelle Vieille Ville) rating 6,5
Dinner: MANTEI MAOVA 7,5 vote for the location
26 JULY: excursion to Lake Melu (1711 meters above sea level)
We wake up early to leave with the cool; we leave the apartment and head towards the Restonica Valley. We are really curious to admire the Corsican mountains, being used to visiting the Dolomites.
We take the road that leads to the parking lot; the road is narrow and winding, but with beautiful views. Several times we stop to allow cars arriving in the opposite direction to pass. There are several shuttles that take tourists. Many cars are parked on the side of the road, but we continue to the paid parking lot (6? For the whole day) and some employees organize the space in a millimeter way.
Well equipped, we set out, the road is paved up to the bar (about 10mt). Finally the uphill path begins which for now is quite easy with some shaded areas up to a second bar about halfway up. path. Before this we met two other buildings, very characteristic, built in stone that sell cheeses and snacks. From here on, the path is stony and alternates between large boulders and paved rocks.
We arrive at an exposed stretch, but with a chain to cling to and immediately after a very steep iron ladder. Not impossible but you have to pay close attention.
After about an hour and a half of walking from the parking lot, we arrive on the plateau and immediately see the lake, a beautiful Alpine body of water.
There are a lot of people, but we still manage to find a place by the lake to stop and put our feet in the cold water. Bathing is absolutely forbidden and a boy watches over the lake going from one side to the other, attracting tourists.
We are undecided whether to continue to LAKE CAPITELLO, which is about 45 minutes away on foot, and which according to other tourists deserves a lot. We decide to stop because the path is not very easy and we have to go down and then continue towards Porto.
For the descent we opt for the path on the right; to avoid the passage with the chain.
In fact it is less exposed, but with huge rocks to climb over.
We see again in the distance the waterfall that fills a natural swimming pool, but there is definitely too much crowd, so we continue.
We meet several people even with children with sandals, certainly not trekking shoes. I honestly strongly advise against taking these poorly equipped trails.
We stop at the bar to have a cool drink and to regain strength.
Satisfied with the excursion, we leave for another stage of Corsica: PORTO.
82 Km of curves, first landscapes of rocks smoothed by the wind and then forests inside the NATURAL PARK. We meet black cows, goats and pigs, right in the middle of the road!
After about 2 and a half hours we decide to stop at the FUNTANA D'ORO CAMPSITE (without reservation, but we had identified it as one of the best in this area).
Here we do not go around alone in search of the pitch but we are accompanied by an employee with a comfortable electric machine.
At the reception they advise us to book the trip with a rubber boat in the Scandola nature reserve for the next day.
In fact it is a good advice, both because the 29th foresees rain, and for the economic aspect: booking at the campsite will save 30? (total 150? for 2 adults and a girl).
Satisfied with the campsite we fall asleep.
excursion to the lake of LOTU: rating 7,5
JULY 27: RIB TOUR (GIROLATA, SCANDOLA NATURE RESERVE, CAPO ROSSO).
The appointment with the boat trip is at 16pm, so we take it easy in the morning.
Let's explore the area around the campsite on foot: beyond the main road we descend to a stream that reveals refreshing pools of water, even if the path is not really easy.
We also take advantage of the campsite's swimming pool, have lunch at the campsite, rest before heading to the port of PORTO (5 min. By car).
Beautiful tour of about 3 hours on a rubber boat (for 8 people) admiring the GULF OF THE GIROLATA, NATURAL RESERVE OF SCANDOLA AND CAPO ROSSO. It deserves a stop at the Gulf of Girolata, where you can visit the characteristic village of the past.
Unfortunately the pilot did not speak Italian so we could not hear all the information, but it was enough for us to admire the wonderful landscapes: rocks of various shapes set on fire by the sun, hidden caves, crystal clear waters. We also enjoy the speed? in the middle of the sea, the waves, the sunset a little clouded by the clouds that foretell the storm.
We just have time to get to the campsite and it starts raining and thundering.
Thunder and rain all night.
boat excursion: grade 8
28 JULY: rest day in PORTO
After the storm of the night the sea is very rough, the waves are incredible, it is absolutely not possible to go into the water and the weather is still gloomy.
In the afternoon we visit the BUSSAGLIA beach towards Calvi: black pebbles and very high waves. Photos from every angle are a must. We make a myriad of them!
We have dinner at the ROBINSON restaurant which is located on the PORTO beach. Satisfied, we stop on the beach to admire the sunset in all its colors, which eventually goes out into the sea.
dinner at ROBINSON restaurant: rating 7,5
FUNTANE D'ORO camping: vote 7+
29 JULY: transfer from Porto to Bonifacio
Dismantled the tent we leave towards Bonifacio with a stop in Ajaccio.
The first part of the road is truly spectacular for the scenery on the sea. When we reach PIANE the road is crowded with tourists who admire the rocks of the CHALANCHES.
We do not stop, next stop AJACCIO.
Any difficulties? to find parking, better towards the port. Let's visit the city? on the trail of Napoleon's presence.
We don't stop much, lunch and continue our journey.
After a long transfer we arrive at CAMPING RONDINARA. From the main road to the campsite it takes about 10 minutes by car between curves and ups and downs.
30 JULY: Rondinara beach
After yesterday's long trip, today we allow ourselves a well-deserved rest in this huge campsite that has the advantage of having a bay just below. We take our bikes and go down the few bends that separate us from the beach. There is ample parking for cars. Beach not huge, but equipped with bar / restaurant, deck chairs and umbrellas in the first part and then free beach. The only drawback is that the beach is very crowded, but I am not surprised: white sand and turquoise sea.
In the afternoon instead we take advantage of the swimming pool of the campsite; deckchairs all occupied but by waiting a little we can find a place.
Vs evening we go to PORTO VECCHIO (about 30 min. By car from the campsite). Quiet village, with some pedestrian alley, and several restaurants.
Rondinara beach: vote 7-
JULY 31: BONIFACIO and LAVEZZI ISLAND
Day dedicated to the island of Lavezzi and Bonifacio.
There is a lot of traffic towards the center of Bonifacio, but we can get tickets (about 30? Each) for the ferry that will take us? to the island. The ferries run continuously and fill up and there is no need to book.
It is advisable to park in the indicated areas, because Bonifacio is really chaotic.
Half an hour of crossing in which we enjoy Bonifacio from the sea with its white granite. We disembark on the island and after the right recommendations of the guides, we go exploring. There are indications, but we do not know which beaches are less crowded, more beautiful and the distance.
The first beach is that of ACHIARINU, not crowded, with an expanse of tiny shells that look like beads. It's a bit chilly for the bathroom and there are some little jellyfish.
After having packed lunch, we change beach and we come to the CHURCH BAY; the water is clear and of a beautiful turquoise and on the shore it is very low. Too bad it's crowded and full of small pink jellyfish.
The return is longer because the ferry takes us to visit the CAVALLO ISLAND, a cave and the spur.
Too bad that the explanation is all in French and they do not care at all if there are tourists of other nationalities. It should also be noted that all those sitting outside were inundated by the waves for the duration of the trip.
We all disembark soaked and while we dry in the sun, I take advantage of the information office at the port to retrieve a map of the city? and let's explore. The upper and historical part of Bonifacio is really beautiful: stairways, climbs, alleys, little shops, restaurants, white everywhere.
We decide to go down the steps of the Aragonese (for a fee 2,5? Adults). Lots of steps (186!) And also high, but the view is very beautiful.
It would take a long time to visit the whole city well, but we are tired of the long day and go back to camping for the last night.
Camping Rondinara: rating 7,5
Lavezzi Island: rating 6,5 (too many medusines)
1 AUGUST: TOWARDS BASTIA
After disassembling the tent, we say goodbye to the campsite and set off towards Bastia.
Even today, however, we do not miss the sea and we stop at the SAN GIULIA beach (5? For parking).
Beautiful very crowded bay, seaweed here too, but we manage to find a place to hang out the towels. The sea in front of us is wonderful: shallow and transparent water, the rocks divide the open sea from the shore. The beach is long and narrow, served by 4 very busy bars / restaurants. We prefer to go to the market off the beach, which also has some snacks to take away.
The departure for Italy is scheduled for tomorrow and tonight we will stay at the CORS hotel in Bisceglie.
We have dinner in Bastia in a nice CHEZ VINCENT restaurant overlooking the harbor and the sea.
We take a stroll downtown but, apart from the clubs in the port, there isn't much life: the souvenir shops are almost all closed.
So we say goodbye to Corsica satisfied with this itinerant holiday!
Accommodation Hotel CORS (Bisceglie): rating 6+
Dinner in Bastia restaurant Chez Vincent: grade 8