Tonga-soa in Madagascar!

Who I am
Martí Micolau

Author and references

And here we are catapulted to Madagascar ... the real Madagascar. After visiting Nosy Be; a world apart that is affected by tourism for better or for worse.
We stayed for five days in a beautiful place in Ambondrona, what a? Brave? Italian boy had the courage to build!
A dream place that? was disturbed only by a night visitor who stole a few things from us: the backpack with the camera, my sunglasses, some money, Cosimo's papers and documents. Too bad, why did the episode spoil us a bit? the idyllic atmosphere we were experiencing.
One of the two guys who stole from us? been taken; first C?? was the chase in which the whole country participated, then the semi-lynching.
Cosimo? been taken to see the captured thief. In the night, in the dark, yeah? found in front of a 22-year-old boy tied to another person, in tears and bleeding.
Had he been injured anymore? times from the? guard? armed with an ax. Ed? been lucky why? ? was taken to the Gendarmerie, usually it is customary to get justice by yourself in these parts.
Apart from this unpleasant episode, Nosy Be? it was a beautiful experience. Dream sea, vegetation that fills the eyes with green, green and more green!
We were in Nosy Iranja where upon arrival we suddenly found ourselves inside a postcard, then we wandered around for a while. inside the island.
Chez Alex? an oasis by the sea (actually inside). In short, 5 easy days, pampered by Brio and his family.

After saying goodbye to all our friends, including the dog and the children of Ambrondona ... we left for Madagascar

1 day

Crossing from Helle-Ville to Ankify with the Ferry (in practice a wooden boat with about ten seats, in which we were about twenty) and then here we are in the renowned Taxi-Brousse!
We got a wash after three minutes of traveling. The change of the wheel was a comedy, everyone laughed and no one was there? socket.
After being stopped three times by the police (no one knows why?), We left and after a while? here we are again stopped, again with the flat tire (the one just replaced)!
Everyone laughs.
Then a whole series of maneuvers began to repair the damage, always with a smile on his face. First they tried inflating it with the bicycle-like hand pump. Then yes ? stopped a truck that inflated it using brake air, though? it didn't hold up and so they solved the problem by putting ONE SCREW in the hole.
Then restart and in these conditions we made about 70 KM.
After that? transfer to another taxi-brousse driven by a madman and off to Diego. In short, to do about 250 km, starting at 9,30 and arriving at 17.00, isn't it good !?
Isn't Diego? beautiful but we stayed there? to relax a bit ?. We slept even skipping dinner, cooked by the heat and the sun.

2 day

Second day, another transfer.
I'm not sure how far we traveled for Diego before we left. 20 in a pickup truck, loaded up to the improbable.
Then we arrived in this absurd place, lost in nothing. Joffreville. Peace and silence. I found a book in this little hotel that we found where it really seems to be in another world and another time. The book is about Taxi-brousse and tells the truth? absolute.
Take a taxi-brousse? part of the life of this country,? enter a little? pi? in the soul of the country. There are no timetables, the taxi will leave? when will it be? full, very full. Two more people enter and install on the spare wheel. Once again, a passenger gets off to buy cigarettes and soon another goes out to buy bread. He waits, he simply waits, without anyone getting nervous. The taxi finally resumes the road. The discussion is animated, the passengers get to know each other, they apparently have a thousand things to say to each other. I listen to them without understanding anything and think of the heavy silence that reigns in the metro.

3 day

In the morning we woke up still immersed in silence. And then off to the Parc de Montagne d? Ambre, a 4 km walk to the entrance.
We took a guide with two other French guys and for five hours we walked through the park. We saw lemurs and chameleons. Too funny the lemurs, they looked at us curiously. Then, every now and then, a? Fady? Waterfall appears, a sacred place of those where the Malagasy go to venerate their ancestors; sacred places where? access to foreigners is impossible. Mamoot our guide? she was very good, she showed us so many things that our few accustomed eyes would have missed. The sleeping lemurs, the hidden chameleons, and more orchids, plants, trees.
Now back in Jeoffreville lost in silence and darkness, enjoying the last hours of this absolute peace. Tomorrow we leave ... the usual journey in a taxi brousse awaits us.

4 day

Wake up and wait. We went up and after various deliveries and commissions, finally loaded, we left. This time the characteristic of our means of transport was that the gears did not enter. In particular the first, so when we stopped (quite frequent event) the helper got out and manually engaged the gear. Then after a while? here we are again in the chaos and heat of Diego. To escape as soon as possible we took, after a long haggling, a taxi, which took us to another place difficult to describe: Ramena.
It is a fishing village inside which there are some hotels and some restaurants. But they are a side dish. The reality? main are the fishermen's huts, their boats and a sea to take your breath away. We are foreigners.
We found accommodation in a very nice hotel called Villa Beach and tomorrow morning we will leave with the faithful Richard to discover the Mer D? Emeraud, which we have heard so much about. The fishermen of the village organize everything: transport by pirogue, food and return.

5 day

After a delicious dinner consumed in the company of two Swiss (he Italian-Swiss) who decided to settle here and who told us many things about Madagascar, and after a pleasant and quiet night,? time to get back on the road!
Morning departure by pirogue, destination the Emerald Sea. A little? waiting at the stranded in a beach like "The Lost", why? the tide was too low to pass.
Then 15 minutes of walking to take the boat back to the other side of the hill, and here we are finally in the long-awaited Wed.
Impossible to describe the color. Emerald, yes, as the name implies ... but not? quite. It doesn't make it.
18 Km of sea or better of swimming pool with sailing dugout. We crossed it and arrived at the beach where they fed us richly. Instantly caught fish put on the grill and away, crabs, salads, rice, all accompanied by a strongly alcoholic capirina that helped with the heat and the sun to put us in a blissful state of torpor.
Return in the evening, dinner and sleep, tonight it was very hot ...

6 day

We woke up ready to go. Giratina for Ramena, greetings to Richard and his niece who gave us two beautiful shells, then here we are again in Diego, who we found in an unusual guise.
Closed shops, hardly any cars and hardly anyone around. This morning c ?? was a demonstration against the lack of electricity and everything? stopped. They also talk about clashes with the police. We didn't notice anything.
Then, slowly, everything starts again and the usual confusion begins.
Departure for Tana from Diego's airport (so to speak). Arrival in Tana: total chaos. You can't breathe from the machines that are there. It has its own charm, however. Is it the first real city? that we meet. Did we do some? of shopping at the flea market after a fierce negotiation, we have conquered our ebony mask and then a night of rest, ready to return to Europe.

7 day

After a night in an uncomfortable bed we prepare to leave.
You go home more? poor materially but perhaps more? rich inside. Have we confronted ourselves with a reality? which until 15 days ago was alone? told ?. We now know it exists.
We bring with us the smile of the Malagasy ... their way of dealing with everyday life.
The country perhaps pi? poor I have ever visited. Do we bring with us the smiles of children, the carefree ingenuity? of those of Nosy Be and Joffreville, and the desperate naivety? of those of Antananarivo, both still able to get excited for a bon bon.
I greet Madagascar bringing with me the smile of a boy to whom Cosimo gave his flip-flops just before entering the airport. His "Merci" pierced my soul.
Nothing could have made it more? happy. Veloma !!!

Audio Video Tonga-soa in Madagascar!
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