I am one who when he leaves has already? the anxiety of not finding parking, do you think the worry before leaving for the holidays without having booked all the hotels? They call it shock therapy. Let's see how it will come out.
Me, Edo, bold (but not too much) 53 years old, she, Laura, with an energy that I know is not all hers. I had more? and now it seems to me that something is missing.
Destination Normandy & Brittany, destination that I try to reach more? 30 years old. I finally weakened Laura's resistance, a lover of the hot sun and swimming in warm seas. Whoever lasts it wins! In reality? she practically decided there, I had already given up.
And then off we go, astride our splendid white Golf.
4/7 - Bourges
We leave in the morning, almost at the appointed time; punctuality? when they distributed it, we were late.
We have undergone several motorway bloodletting: the Frejus costs like a Vasco concert, and I sang in the car. The French motorways, then, are like their cheeses, the same as ours but more? care.
With empty pockets we reach the first stop: Bourges.
For this and the next stage I have only the anxiety of parking why? we booked two chambre d? hotes (basically Bed & breakfasts, but you know, the French use their own language: always).
We arrive at the Cathedral of Saint Etienne from the apse side and immediately enter through a side portal. The interior ? austere and majestic. Five naves almost 40 meters high and splendid stained glass windows from 1200 (!!), same age? of the cathedral. We are truly breathless. Then we go out to admire the facade full of sculptures, five portals and two towers, one of which is cut off.
The majesty, in my opinion and so far,? second only to Notre Dame and the Duomo of Milan, but will I change my mind? during the trip.
We take pictures from the gardens on the side of the cathedral and go to the room to rest for a while. We stay at the Lamarck Guest, nice, dignified accommodation. Just outside the center. 75? / Night.
Audrey, the lady of the B&B, tells us about a night set-up in Bourges: from 22 pm they light up in the city? of blue street lamps that draw a path with stops in front of buildings against which various scenes are projected that? tell? the city. Very, very impressive, they do it every night until October.
Now I have a scheduled fainting to return very lively tomorrow for the second stage: Rouen.
5/7 - Chartres? Giverny? Rouen
Looking at the map we discover that Chartres and its cathedral would be almost on the way and we decide to pass by.
Indeed the cathedral? huge, Bourges? already? silver medal. A facade slanting upwards, looks like a launching pad for bell towers! The interior ? similar to that of Bourges Cathedral: all to make dwarves feel like us even more? little ones.
We eat some crepes near the cathedral and then go to Monet's house in Giverny.
Monet's paintings inspire both peace like water lilies, the bridge over the pond, etc., as well as restlessness, at least for me, like the drawings of the Rouen cathedral. The gardens, on the other hand, inspired me only very warm. Let's understand, I can hardly hold the gardens, then if you visit them en masse and at 30 ?, I find them quite heavy. Laura, on the other hand, likes them and where I saw a pool of water with leaves, she saw Monet's paintings.
Now we are really aiming for Normandy: we arrive before dinner at the chambre d? Hotes? La Phenix? managed by Simona and Pietro. Yes, they are Italian. A surprise.
Did they explain to us how good life is in Normandy where things seem to work and the population? very turned to the other ?, tolerant. It looks like the Italy we live in now ...
We go downtown and eat dinner at chez Philippe near the center (not bad) and then, as Simona and Pietro advised us, we stand in front of the Cathedral (immense, needless to say) why? at 11 a show of sounds and lights projected on the facade starts.
This second evening of sound and light I know what will be? even the last one. ? a very French thing and I am a little bored. But anyway, seen once,? a suggestive thing.
They are more? tired of yesterday, I dream of passing out on the bed. Which I do as soon as I see it!
6/7? Rouen - Etretat? Honfleur
You go downtown to visit the Notre Dame Cathedral of Rouen, but first two photos at the site where? The Maid of Orleans, Joan of Arc, was burned alive in the Vieux March? square.
To go to the cathedral you pass through the Rue de Grand Horologe, where needless to say, you pass under a clock that was previously on a tower and perhaps why? the citizens saw little, they pulled already? and now it acts as an arch on the road, much more? down. Now in Rouen they have all become very punctual. The watches are very beautiful (there are two, one on each side), with a single hand, all gilded.
Arriving in front of the cathedral you have to admire the facade, a whole statue and curlicues. Not symmetrical, not at all, and it bothers me a bit ?. Even the towers on the sides are different, one more? high of the other and one with a pointed roof and the other not. Ah, in the center of the church a (cast iron) spire rises. the "P? 151 meters high in France.
The interior, I admit, is now waiting for me: very high columns, windows with colored glass. And so what? ?. I don't like getting used to beauty, but? so ?. Had I only seen this cathedral I would have been breathless.
An interesting thing: here? Richard the Lionheart is buried. Robin Hood's Good King!
Leaving we head towards Saint Maclou, a Gothic church with a convex, curious face. Very nice from the outside, the inside? I don't know, it was closed.
This is where the Seine passes and you don't want to take a stroll along the river we met in Paris? Here? a little? grown up, we are close to the mouth now.
Let's go, take the car and head for Etretat. After a while? of discomfort for the hundreds of cars, more? ours, which seemed the only one, shouldn't have a parking space, we took the beach stuff with great confidence and set off.
Etretat? a pebble beach with white alabaster cliffs at both ends which are an immense spectacle. They are both easily scalable on foot. The one on the right, looking at the sea, the cliff d? Amont has a chapel on the top and the view on the other cliff that makes an arch and in front has a spire of 50 meters. Here Monet made some of his most famous paintings. famous.
We got off the cliff and decided to beach, as dozens and dozens of other people have done. C ?? a beautiful sun and seeing that c? who takes a bath we are misled. Laura dives and exiting she says to me:? Nnoon fff-aar-llo ...? with two eyes like that. But will it be? even the man of the house, right? And then after long seconds of indecision, I throw myself. Hibernating experience! I took a bath for about 12-13 seconds. And they seemed eternal to me. We climb with difficulty on the pebbles and reach the towels. And I fall asleep, as expected.
When I wake up we also attack the other cliff, the crag d? Aval. Millions of photos and we can go back. Ah on the beach there was a concert and they even sang a song in Italian! See you tonight? by Lucio Battisti.
We get back into the car and head for the new Chambre d? Hotes booked near Honfleur? Fermes des Lisores? (60?), A beautiful farm that welcomes us with cows and calves in the front lawn. Very kind Veronique accompanies us to the room. All very bucolic!
For dinner we go to Honfleur, a beautiful village around a small port. We eat le moules (mussels) from l? Escale. Two gigantic portions! And good.
Let's take a few more steps to Honfleur and then back to the farm, say we have to milk the cows?
No, it wasn't necessary. So goodnight.
7/7 - Arromanches - Bayeux
Good breakfast and off we go.
We cross the Ponte de Normande to reach the first stop of our tour among the places of the landing of? 44.
We arrive in Arromanches les bains around lunchtime.
Almost everything is known about the landing: but the history of this place is incredible. The allies needed a port to land vehicles and men once the coast was conquered. Win one already? existing could take too long and too many lives, so they brought it over from Britain!
In the days after the landing, they initially sank a series of ships off Arromanche in order to make an artificial dam, then huge floating blocks were transported to which gangways were attached. This structure with the high sea served as a pier. Hundreds of vehicles and hundreds of thousands of soldiers landed here. War ? was won here too.
We arrive at low tide and we have been able to closely observe the blocks that have remained here to witness this enormous undertaking of men.
Then we go up the cliff where? a 360 cinema has been set up? where we followed the story of the landing. From here c ?? the best view of the bay, from which we observe the advancing tide.
When we return to shore, the sea has reached the promenade and the blocks where we had walked are about a hundred meters off.
We eat a crepes and then we go to Bayeux where we take possession of our room in Clos Fleury (70?) Managed by a very diligent elderly couple.
We are informed that we are lucky: today in Bayeux c ?? the annual medieval festival. A cuddly half comes to me: I don't love much, n? costume parties, n? the gatherings of crowds. Will you find them here? both of them!
We arrive in the center and? all a whirlwind of broadswords, crossbows, witches, acrobats and many, many people. Everything as expected. Let's cut through the crowd and go to see something I didn't know existed while Laura, as a good history teacher, knows very well. The Bayeux tapestry.
? kept in the municipal library. Laura explains to me that not? a tapestry but? an embroidery. I do s? with his head, hoping he won't ask me the difference. She who knows me, avoids rage.
However, ? a 70 meter long carpet that describes the story of William the Conqueror. Very interesting.
Now let's face the barbarians again to go to the cathedral. ? huge. But unfortunately c? really too many people, I need to breathe. Let's go back to the room.
At 20 pm we go to dinner: a miracle. Not C?? pi? nobody. But none at all. And the restaurants, almost all closed. We find a nice one, Le Table du Terroir, where we meet another Italian couple who fled to the north of France.
Impressive, however, how the city has depopulated.
8/7? Landing places
Today we take a tour of the places of the landing on June 6, 1944.
But first a few words about the very filling breakfast from the differently young couple who run the Clos Fleury. Pan perd ?, an excellent dessert made with stale bread, sugar and other things that make it delicious. Look for it on the internet.
Refreshed properly we leave to stop almost immediately: in Bayeux c ?? the British military cemetery that houses more? of three thousand soldiers almost all very young and almost all died in the days of the landing. Headstones with the name, all lined up in a perfectly manicured garden with trees to shade the remains of these poor boys. Almost all of the age? of our children.
With a lump in our throat we leave for Longues sur Mer to see the German batteries that protected the coast. That day they resisted until the evening and then capitulated. They were the bad guys, but did I imagine myself standing there? to shoot from inside a reinforced concrete bunker while from the sky and from the sea they are bombarding you relentlessly, knowing they have no escape.
We move to Colleville s / Mer to visit the American cemetery right above Omaha beach, the beach where? was paid the price pi? high of human lives (3000 among the allies, unfortunately I have not found the figures relating to the Germans). The cemetery ? a forest of crosses and some stars of David all perfectly aligned and facing west, towards the USA, for a total of more? of 9.000 tombs. Definitely scenographic and here too young people aged 18 to 40 with the vast majority of young people between 19 and 21 years old. We go out and go to Omaha beach where a steel sculpture called? The braves? (the brave) recalls the courage and sacrifice of thousands of young people.
Now we go to Cambe to visit the cemetery of the defeated, the Germans. ? the cemetery pi? large (21.000 tombs) but little is said about it. The dead have no nationality? and also many of these guys have lived their whole life under Hitler, already? only this makes everything even more? sad.
To understand the impact of the landing on the territory, let's go to Pointe du Hoc, a strategic peninsula. Here the craters of the allied bombs were left. They are huge, the peninsula looks like a Swiss cheese. A very useful visual testimony.
The last stage? Sainte-M? Re-? Glise, where by mistake? a group of American soldiers was parachuted, the city? it was full of Germans who practically did the shooting, killing dozens of boys. The place ? famous why? a par? had been caught on a steeple of the bell tower and yes? saved by pretending to be dead. Now at the bell tower, in memory, c ?? a mannequin with an entangled parachute.
We return to Bayeux with a not exactly holiday spirit.
For dinner we eat at? Le Volet Qui Penche ?: I ate the tete de veau (head of veal), for us Piedmontese? eatable why? we eat the? head ?. For others I think it's very hard to eat this dish. But? really good.
9/7 Mont Saint Michel
We leave Bayeux to go to the Norman-Breton border.
The Google Maps navigator must be from these parts: pi? that the path pi? it seems easy a ride to greet relatives in the countryside. We only saw cows, farms and wheat, passing through tiny streets. After several zigzags on our left the unmistakable silhouette of Mont Saint Michel appears.
For me it had almost become an unfulfilled desire. Thanks Laura for having consented to this trip!
We park: I am so ecstatic that I don't even wonder how much it will cost, let's get on a shuttle? Free? and go!
Not C?? nothing that I can say that is not already? been told about this place.
We arrived with the rising tide and around the island you can see the water coming: interesting. During the visit the tide reached its maximum and the water? arrived to touch the ramparts.
I am happy as a child in the circus. I took a million photos. Seriously: just a dinner with Roberto Baggio, Del Piero and Michel? Le Roi? Platini could be more? fulfilling. If they pay them?
At the parking lot my eyes swell again: 14 euros! It costs less to park in St. Peter's Square!
Second stop of the day: Saint Malo. We arrive in the late afternoon and Laura wants to stay a while? at the beach. A quick look at the walls and then we find our place: I put the towel, Laura wants to stay on the dry sand so we stay away from the water, and I faint. Too many emotions today.
When do we regain our senses (Laura was also excited) the sea? far away, in an hour it will be withdrawn more? of one hundred meters. I don't get used to the tides.
Here they exploit the phenomenon: on the beach they have erected a rectangular wall (rhymes!) Open towards the beach, 2/3 meters high. When the water withdraws, the wall holds it back and a natural pool is formed. There are also trampolines !!
Thanks to the low tide you reach an islet from which you can? admire this beautiful city, all surrounded by mighty walls. An enchantment. After a tour on the ramparts, head towards Dinan for the overnight stay.
The place ? in the city? and? the only point in favor. Tiny room in a not very well maintained house (Priory view - 70?). Let's hope for breakfast tomorrow.
At dinner, I shoot myself a half-meter skewer of beef. Vegans will hate me. Laura instead a bowl of very small mussels. As soon as ? managed to finish them we go to bed.
10/7? Dinan - Fort La Latte - Cap Frehel
The breakfast confirmed the inadequacy of the chambre d? Hotes. Okay, it was fine anyway, we adapt a lot and we have no pretensions, but anyway, at least I notice the differences in treatment.
Dinan? very beautiful. City medieval with a beautiful street in steep descent with half-timbered houses (they are houses with exposed wooden beams on the walls) that leads to a beautiful harbor on the river Rance. Romantic.
Let's walk a little? on the walls surrounding the town, we look at the clock tower and the castle, no Laura, we do not visit it: there will be? the hall of honor, the bedrooms with bathrooms, the soldiers' hall, the kitchen. Voil ?, as if we had seen it.
Now let's go to Cap Frehel: we read about a walk on the? Path of the customs officers? from the lighthouse to Fort La Latte. We park and discover that the maximum parking time? than three hours and just coming and going if they take the three hours away? therefore they advise us to do the walk in reverse. Update the guides then.
Full of enthusiasm we go to Fort La Latte, free parking. You?.
C ?? full sun in Brittany! Since we've been here, by the way. But it's not hot (22?) So we tackle the path at lunchtime. For a while? not ? nothing special, then almost at Cap Frehel you can see an expanse of purple and yellow flowers: the moor! ? out of geography books and presents itself in all its beauty. Now I miss them only more? mosses and lichens.
Are beautiful photos with these colors and the lighthouse there? At bottom. The cliffs are less impressive than I expected, but the view pays the eye.
We eat sandwiches bought on the go at the lighthouse and go back.
The return, which must have been there,? pi? scenographic, with Fort La Latte in the background.
When we arrived at the fort we preferred a beer and a juice to visit, very welcome.
Round trip 2 hours, instead of the 3 foreseen, dirty feet (the path is very dusty) and tiredness, which is not said, however? c ??.
We now go to Binic for the next chambre. A delightful place, La Chambre du Vaudic in Pordic (67?) (Everything ends in ic, in this area), held by a very organic couple, even the beer they offered me was organic.
Dinner at Binic, moules me and burgers Laura and we go to fall. The first one that says? 50 years and not hear them ??
11/7? Beauport Abbey and Ile de Brehat
Obviously organic breakfast, good even if not very rich (croissants, no, salami, no, cheeses, no) and off we go. Francine advises us to see Beauport Abbey and so on. we do: on the road to Paimpol c ?? this dilapidated church, without a roof and with a lawn, roses and hydrangeas instead of the floor. An oasis of peace with a view of the sea: we take a walk and see boats aground for low tide: they seem to sleep like this. lay on your side on the sand.
Now we go to Brehat to take the boat to Ile de Brehat. Ticket with tour of the island and docking, 16 euros: otherwise you can? also make the ticket only for crossing and docking.
? an archipelago of dozens of islets (or rather, rocks) and two more islands? large. In addition to the beauty of the landscape, the differences from ours can be seen. We could be in Sardinia but on the islands there are pines and? all very green. C ?? a beautiful lighthouse and an original tide mill.
I take a ton of photos, I think all the same, but I am captivated by the inspiration and the car given to me before departure. I feel Mc Curry, but I already know that when I look at the photos better discover? the differences?
After docking, the goal? the plage de Guerzido that we reach, getting lost, in 10 minutes. Vabb? I don't repeat myself on the beauty of the place, I say for? that here the water? pi? hot, in fact my bath lasts twice as long as the one I did in Etretat: 30 seconds flat !!! No, guys, it looks like Sardinia, but in reality? ? own Brittany. I keep the goose skin to remind me to avoid diving back, taken by the similarities.
An hour and a half svacco and then, with Breton beer in hand, we leave for a stroll around the island. There are no cars,? all very bucolic. Come people,? beautiful: but take a bath at home!
Back on the mainland we focus on Treguier where we booked a chambre (Kergroas in Trezardec, 66?) Held by Pierette: a nice grandmother who offers us an aperitif introducing us to the whole family: son, daughter-in-law and three nice and beautiful grandchildren.
At 20.30 we go? To the village? and risk fasting? here? already? all closed, in the restaurants they tell us that? late, and it's 20.45pm! Luckily there are brasseries !! A nice entrecote (Laura, scornful of danger, takes a pizza) and then to bed, very tired. They feel 50, they feel. Which are also 53.
12/7 - Ploumanac? H - Perros Guirec
Pierrette talks to us as if we were French and she does it while we eat breakfast: it's not easy to butter the crepes, which for me is already? not ? easy in itself ?, trying to intercept at least one word out of five to understand the meaning of the speech and articulate in my French to Tot? sensible answers. Luckily there is ?? Laura who acts like Pierrette, speaks to her in Italian. I almost leave them to chat and bring me crepes, butter, coffee? etc. in the garden.
We are finally able to leave. Ah, this morning? rained! Long last. Otherwise it felt like being in Puglia.
First we make a visit to the cathedral of Tregiuer. Here the churches are disproportionate to the countries in which they are built. ? mighty, always Gothic with a pencil-pointed bell tower.
Then Laura gets hold of a box of salted butter candies. ? the portrait of happiness ?! How will it be? his dentist.
We would have focused on Trestrou, but Pierrette advised us to go directly to Ploumanac? H, Semaphore car park, to take the GR34 path, also the one of the customs officers, which leads to the Perros Guirec lighthouse, passing through the pink granite coast. Huge boulders eroded by the wind that took different shapes: a wave, the face of a gorilla, a shell and so on. Street. Nature always amazes.
After an hour of wandering among the rocks we arrive at the lighthouse, small, the same color as the granite. Very beautifull.
After about forty photos at the lighthouse, we continue the walk and arrive at the Plage de Saint Guirec. Vabb? ? beautiful too, with an islet in the middle of the bay. This time I don't try the bath, convinced by the very few people in the water, and I choose catalepsy. Here I play at home! But Laura? a worthy appears.
We recover after about an hour. We are getting a tan in Brittany !!
Now a less bucolic walk takes us to the sculpture park. The artists will also be good, but to put it like Alessandro Borghese, the location? very neglected. A meadow of dry grass. A sad thing, it's not worth it.
Back in the chambre we prepare for dinner. Let's go back to yesterday's brasserie (Les Vieilles Poutres). Let's play it safe, and then sleep. So much Treguier? totally empty and closed after 9pm.
13/7 - Morlaix - enclos paroissiaux - Ile Vierge
Another breakfast chat, then we say goodbye to the very cordial Pierrette and head west.
First stop, the car wash: I have dirty windows and we decide to wash the whole car with the brushes. Result: clean machine and glass? filthy as before. Perfect.
We continue towards Morlaix, a town dominated by a huge railway viaduct dating back to 1860. Carina la città? without for? things worthy of note, apart from the viaduct. Can you? also go above, from where you can see the river port of the city.
From a travel diary we discover the existence of the? Enclos paroissiaux ?, in Italian parish complexes. We stop in St. Thegonnec, Guimiliau, Lampaul-Guimiliau. They are all very similar: a low wall, with a triumphal arch, which surrounds an area on which there is a church, a calvary (a construction similar to a sepulcher, like the Arche of Verona) and a cemetery. I recommend them, they are very interesting and all within 10 km.
But we aim for more? in there: after 50 minutes of travel we arrive in front of the lighthouse of Ile Vierge. The lighthouse pi? high in Europe, 85 meters. It looks like a missile. ? on an islet and can obviously only be reached by sea. And we arrived late for the last crossing. Patience. Dozens of photos and you go to the beach. Today it's cool so no svacco.
? a very beautiful place, which tastes like the end of the earth. Then there are dozens of boats anchored in the bay, a very easy place to photograph.
Now we go to the reserved chambre, Ty-Jos Pays des Abers (68?) Near Plouguerneau, to Lucien and his wife. ? a cottage on a hill directly on Aber Wrac? h. The Aber are practically Breton fjords. The view from the chambre? enchanting.
For dinner, a biscuit and a crepes (mine is all burnt) at the Creperie du Pont and we go back to Ile Vierge to see the sunset.
Arriving at the beach we discover that there is no water? more ?! And the boats are all aground. A surprise that deserves a good deal? of photos. And expect the sunset, which arrives with beautiful colors at 22.19!
The day ended in style.
14/7 - Road of lighthouses
Breakfast? Assisted? in the sense that Lucien and his wife are there? while we eat. A little? embarrassing, as it had been with Pierrette. The Bretons are very attentive and are very happy to chat. Understanding them would help.
Near the chambre c ?? the viewpoint on the Aber Wrac? h. The tide? low and c ?? little water but the view? very beautiful. The point ? on the road from Plouguerneau to Paluden (but in any case it is signposted).
We leave for the road of the lighthouses (we will see three, we have left out one and forgotten another ..). Not just lighthouses, however: the first destination, in fact,? the dolmen of Guilligui. On a knoll in Portsall c ?? a Roman cross and a dolmen and from there? you see an excellent view. I repeat, the tide? low, all the boats, really many, are resting on the ground. Surreal.
We go down a small road on the opposite side of the cross and take two steps in the bay, between the boats. And when does it happen again?
From here we move towards the chapel of Saint Samson. A very bucolic church facing the sea. In front of the chapel we find two elders doing tai chi. I am torn between a feeling of tenderness and one of compassion. Tender are tender, though? they move really badly. Sar? l? age? or the lack of training, but they seem to be very busy. The tai chi? a very harmonious movement, their? pi? arthritic. Free them to do it, free me to criticize.
There are also some horses grazing, it looks like a movie set.
Now you go to the peninsula of Saint Laurent from where you can see the Phare du Four, which watches over the sea from a rock 2 km from the coast. Another natural set. It would be more? scenographic with rough sea: the lighthouse? one of those pi? played, slapped by waves as high as him. Today, why? Am I lucky, the sea? a board, the only waves I see are those of Laura's hair. However, I took about twenty photos, all perfectly alike. Do you think boredom when you do it? see someone. To me every shot seemed very original and instead they are good for the game? Spot the differences ?.
Taken away from Laura, I was still hoping for a? Tidal wave, we first go to a boulangerie to buy some sandwiches (taste the? Pomm? Breton? Cake, weighs like cast iron, but? Very good) and then towards Pointe de Corsen, the point pi? west of mainland France. Not C?? much, if not the? point ?, that we diligently photograph, but only once.
We move south towards Le Conquet to see the Kermorvan peninsula: on one side of the peninsula there is a huge beach (Plage des Blancs Sablons), I think very nice given the endless expanse of parked cars, but we are today? we are idlers like these stranded here.
We put the car to the limit? Rolling? and we walk among the ferns in an anonymous landscape. Perhaps the stranded are not precisely the unwary. Finally we arrive at the tip where there is a lighthouse and a fort, both closed. Photos here and l? and back to the car. We understand now that the country facing the peninsula? Le Conquet, but we won't go there. We have to make sacrifices ...
Next stop the Saint Mathieu lighthouse, shortly after Le Conquet. Here we are at poetry: an unfinished (or ruined) abbey and a red and white lighthouse at its side. The machine, knowing me, begins to take pictures by itself.
Now we are thirsty and hot: the first we appease her at the bar, the second would take a bath. We find a small beach and we approach the water that bites our ankles! Let's leave the bathroom alone, go, you risk hypothermia. I would opt for a nice nap, but a phone call from Luca, one of the children abandoned at home to themselves (calm down, no blue phone: they are 22 and 25 years old, the little ones), distracts me from the program. But you know, and sons? piezz? and core.
The day ends in Saint Renan where Anne is waiting for us at her? Les Chambres d'Anne? (48?).
We eat at the Creperie La Maison d'Autrefois. I got a Mol? Ne sausage (not much?), Laura the hundredth galette.
The overlooked lighthouse? Treven's, we haven't found it, and the forgotten one? that of Petit Minou and I'm sorry why? from the photos it looked very nice. Who knows? Tomorrow?
15/7 - Ile de Ouessant
Breakfast so? so, but? the cheapest place, so far, and we leave for a day off the continent.
We embark in Lanildut for the island of Ouessant (35? Each, Finist? Mer company).
Here c?? a little story: to me, maybe s ?? understood, I like lighthouses and years ago Laura gave me a blow-up of a stormy lighthouse. At the time I did some research and I realized that the lighthouse was that of Creac? H, on the island of Ouessant, in fact. And I said to myself:? Who knows ?, one day ?. ? today!!!!
Forty-five minutes of navigation and you arrive at the island, what? 8 km long and 4 km wide, small. We rent two bikes (14? Per bike) and immediately aim for the target. Twenty minutes of pedaling, including errors, and here we are. I am almost touched.
The lighthouse ? huge, with black and white stripes (excellent color choice!) high on the cliff. I try to understand from which angle it was immortalized in the photo and we try a copy. Though ? impossible for two reasons: the first is the sea: still today, so no wave. The second, the original photo? taken from the sea. I also photograph the rock on which I think the mega wave I watch every morning breaks (the photo? In the bedroom). I border on paranoia.
For me the visit could have ended there, but there are seven hours left to spend before returning.
And then, with two city bikes, we venture into the moor. Two morons! After 5 minutes of comfortable pedaling, the path becomes a mule track. An ordeal. When we finally come out on a dirt road we find many cyclists a lot more? smart of us.
After this enterprise we return to the only inhabited center where we scofaniamo two beautiful crepes and I take advantage of the beautiful waitress. Sorry Laura, but I can't get my eyes out!
For the afternoon, a stage in the Dolomites awaits us, but we didn't know it. We want to see the Stiff lighthouse, from the opposite end to ours. The fact that you see there? above does not make us suspicious. Let's freak out on exchange rates, I invoke saints not yet canonized and we arrive at this blessed lighthouse. Sar? the fatigue, the labored breathing, the traveggole, but I didn't appreciate it.
Let's go back to the village and focus on a beach there? close. We immediately understand that it is not convenient to go aboard the water, because there is not? none: they are all 200 meters more? back against the low wall that marks the end of the beach. We walled in too and within an hour we were on the water's edge, and we didn't move. You have to get used to the tides.
It is also a hot pig, I guess the Bretons have to get used to this. An hour of solace and we take calmly the way to the port. And it takes us badly!
I didn't understand anything about the geography of the island: the port? quite far from the port, while I thought it was there? two steps away. A slight anxiety takes me: I produce myself with a forcing that not even Gianni Bugno, I call all the saints from just before and we arrive (Laura I always hoped was behind, I never turned) with various cardiorespiratory problems at the bike depot. I thank the guy who picks them up and we go down to the port to close the row of boats. We rise and collapse.
Once on the continent I discover that the next chambre? much more? far from expected. It's practically in Pointe du Raz, an hour and a half from here. Calmly we arrive.
We have dinner at a creperie recommended by Kristine who runs Sesu Dolmen in Primelin (70?) On the edge of civilization? and then: curtain.
16/7 - Pointe du Raz - Quimper - Concarneau
So, we booked as we moved and this last shot? gone a little? long. I thought I had found a place that would allow the Pointe du Raz and Crozon double but not. Will the Crozon Peninsula remain? between desires.
Morning dedicated to Pointe du Raz, then. For a few hundred meters not? the point pi? western France (Pointe de Corsen wins) but? a silver that tastes like gold. Not C?? comparison: l? c ?? just the point, here c ?? all the rest. A rocky promontory, surrounded by rocks with a lighthouse at the top. This place at night, with the rough sea, must be an executioner fear. To remember the extreme safety of the place on the promontory c ?? a poignant sculpture of Notre-Dame des Naufrag? if you over there? in the background the Baie des Tr? pass? s, where it seems that the boats and sailors who lost the battle against this decidedly hostile stretch of sea arrived. The devotees to the Celtic cult think it is the starting point of the druids towards the? Aldil ?, my pragmatism tends towards the less noble version.
We could now continue on the north coast of the peninsula, but we opt for an urban visit, Quimper. Forty-five minutes by car and we're in this little town? with a medieval flavor: cobbled streets, half-timbered houses (now that I know them, I write it with ostentation) and the Cathedral with two twin, very high bell towers. Obviously Gothic facade, but very symmetrical: I approve.
The interior follows the other churches with a particularity: the choir arm? inclined by a few degrees with respect to the naves. This is to represent the inclination of the head of the dying Christ. The architect is brilliant!
Laura now wants to buy things from Arbor Lux, what ?? A Breton clothing brand, now I know. You get two shirts that cost one euro per line, and there are several. Do you know? They are the sailor shirts. Sob!
Now we go even further? South. The original idea was another controlled faint on a beach, but the swimsuits and towels remained in the room? we are organization monsters! Another? Urban? Stage, therefore: Concarneau. A small Saint Malo. But we are too tired, we don't appreciate much. We buy some souvenirs and go back. Last Breton dinner in the same place yesterday.
Tomorrow bar south, the return home begins.
17/7 - Chenonceau
Last breakfast, we say goodbye to Kristine, a Parisian transplanted to Brittany, and we begin the return journey.
In the distant? 92 we had, married for a year, toured the castles of the Loire and now we want to see if we or they have aged better. I fear the response.
A fairly peaceful journey and in the late afternoon we arrive in Chenonceau. Damn him,? same as 27 years ago!
The castle ? very romantic, to give tooth decay: resting on the bank of a river with a gallery? bridge? that crosses it, then there are the gardens, the islets on the river.
It seems to be in a Disney cartoon and instead this jewel, inhabited by Caterina de Medici, is 500 years old. All in white stone. Perfect.
And in? 92 was it so, me? ok? the hair was not needed and away, gone, with us then it's cold and you have to accumulate fat. Laura still has hair and fat? says who user? mine, were cold.
A kilometer from the castle c ?? our chambre L? Amandines (75?). Comfortable and cute. C ?? even a cat pi? wide than long.
Dinner in Amboise, city? in which ? Leonardo da Vinci died. We eat under the castle and go home to prepare for tomorrow's tour. Laura, yes, this time we visit the castles, even if I have an idea of the interiors.
18/7 - Cheverny - Chambord - Blois - Amboise
We have drawn up a "challenging" plan.
A good breakfast and go. Brigitte, the hostess, advises us to get tickets for Cheverny at the tourist office here in Chenonceau, it costs one euro less (11?) And will avoid us? queues at the ticket office.
Let's go: tourist office, tickets bought. It is a journey into memory: we will only visit castles already? visited in? 92.
Cheverny not? on the Loire and? architecturally perfect: all symmetrical, identical domes on the sides and identical elements on the sides of the entrance.
Then last thing: the dogs. Here in an enclosure (then they go out, eh) live a hundred hunting dogs. When we arrive, most of them sleep, possibly on another dog. It's a nice eye-catcher: you see hundreds of legs on bellies, heads on butts, etc. Funny.
Come on, let's go inside. This is not? a royal castle so no throne rooms, the queen's apartments. But? fully furnished ... so complete bedrooms, children's with games, music rooms, dining. This part of the vacation? all for Laura and so I don't snort. Too much.
I remembered dogs from 92, but from 2019, will I remember? dogs.
Now, Chambord. The intention? to look at it from the outside why? ? immense and we don't have time. As stingy as I am I hope to stop the car, shoot the photos and go. But here they have it to death with the stingy ones: isn't there? a place to scrounge the view. You have to park, for a fee. Laura says a? Patience? with the look of Shrek's Puss in Boots and then I park. 6 euros! It's okay to be angry with the stingy, but so? aim for extermination!
We look at the castle more? famous of all: huge, a forest of fireplaces. I'm not too angry either.
The day ? still long: we go to Blois.
Here Henry II had established the court of France in 1500. The castle ? urban and from outside it does not express the best. The inner courtyard instead? magnificent. We have entered this, yes, but thanks to a voucher that Brigitte gave us we have a reduction on the ticket (9,5 euros instead of 12), I am recovering from the shock of the Chambord car park.
The courtyard, in fact: c ?? a Renaissance staircase that alone is worth the price of the ticket. The interiors: stereotypes all respected.
Now we want to take a look at Chaumont s / Loire hoping to snatch photos of the exterior. Yeah, too easy. Here you just do not enter, we arrived late, but I don't think I would have unstitched 12 euros for the photos. Guarder? those of? 92.
We return to Amboise, the castle also closed here. Do you try to enter Clos Luc ?, the castle where? Leonardo died. But unlike the others? ? closed. But at least we took the photo of the facade.
Now I'm in pieces: we shoot each other, I the last entrecote and Laura the first chicken of the holiday and we go back.
Tomorrow a very long journey back to the Savoy land.
Was this an unexpected trip, Laura? pi? for the South and the heat, but after more? I deserved an award for 30 years of total devotion, right?
From the point of view of satisfaction: total. A tour that includes everything, art, nature.
Very few crowds if not in Mont Saint Michel. And in Bayeux, but just be more? lucky of us and skip the medieval festival.
The choice to focus on the Chambre d? Hotes? been a winner: beautiful locations, often out of town? and therefore very quiet, at very low prices. Always around 65/70? per night breakfast included.
On the climate, I can only dispel a myth: 15 days of uninterrupted sunshine. But I think it's definitely out of the ordinary.
The French motorways are very expensive, but in Brittany you never pay.
We have changed 11 chambre, but I think you can? reduce wandering. We booked most of the chambre through Chambre d? Hotes (https://www.chambres-hotes.fr). Choose the seat, send a message and within a maximum of two hours, the managers respond with availability. No hitch. We have booked something with Booking.
Places, in my opinion, that are a must see:
● Landing beaches
● Mont Saint Michel
● Cap Frehel
● Ile de Brehat
● Ile de Ouessant
● Pointe du Raz
Then ? a very subjective thing. The ideal? see what you can, without being convicted of the holidays. Will they always be more? the things you have seen versus those you have given up. Then you will always find who will tell you ?: You have been to xxxxxx. No? So what did you go there for ???