April? the ideal month to discover the fabulous coasts of Sardinia, when there are still not too many tourists to flock to its pristine beaches. We have decided for a holiday in total freedom, traveling and sleeping in our car that we have long since modified into a fully equipped van with all comforts.
From Olbia to Sa Foxi Manna (345 km)
We disembark in Olbia rather rested, although we had chosen the most? economic bridge passage. Most passengers who choose this option settle wherever they happen, along the aisles of the ship with sleeping bags and makeshift mattresses.
As soon as we touch, we orient our compass towards the south, shortly arriving at the splendid beach of Cala Gonone. The mild climate and the almost total absence of tourists allow us to spend a couple of hours of pleasant relaxation here.
The road that crosses the Gennargentu National Park? deserted, spectacular and very scenic. We proceed quickly towards the marina of Tertenia and the Gulf of Sarrala. About three kilometers from the coast we take the junction for the beach of Sa Foxi Manna. This is an area of Sardinia that is still very natural and wild, with few facilities and therefore little used by tourism. After some difficulties? in finding accommodation for our car, we stop for the night in a small port close to a military area.
Sa Foxi Manna - Pula (200 km)
We leave the beach of Sa Foxi Manna at dawn along the panoramic coastal road towards Olia Speciosa. Here we meet the first "spots" ideal for kitesurfing enthusiasts. I have all the equipment with me and I can't wait to do some outings at sea.
Near Villasimius we cannot ignore the beautiful beach of Capo Carbonara. Today the wind enters the mistral and? very gusty. However, I go out for about half an hour, then I have to give up the strong gusts of over 30 knots.
Near the pond of Cagliari, in the locality? La Maddalena (Maramura beach) I point out another interesting spot. The wind in this area looks like a thermal and? much more? constant than that found at Capo Carbonara. It's late now and so? we stop only for the time to admire some evolution to continue in the direction of Pula.
Pula - Chia (83 km)
In the municipality of Pula are the ruins of the city? punica di Nora that we recommend you visit. We head towards the Chia Tower from which you can enjoy a splendid view of the bay. We leave the car in a large parking lot and with our mountain bikes we follow a dirt path that crosses a thick Mediterranean vegetation surrounded by rocks with the most shapes. strange, due to the action of atmospheric agents. In short we reach the lighthouse of Capo Spartivento from where you can? enjoy an excellent view of Chia Bay to the east, and the coast of Teulada to the west. We stop for lunch at the beach of Malfatano, a splendid inlet where we will decide to stay overnight with our van.
Chia - Island of San Pietro (94 km)
In the late morning we reached the port of Calasetta waiting for the ferry that will take us in about 40 minutes. on the Island of San Pietro.
We disembark in Carloforte (San Pietro Island), the only inhabited center on the island. The latter was founded by a colony of Ligurian fishermen from Tabarka, an island off the coast of Tunisia.
Can the Ligurian origin of its inhabitants be? find in the dialect, in the traditions, in the customs, in the town planning, how can you? note when visiting its historic center.
We leave our car near the port and by bicycle we head towards the "columns", located between the Bobba beach and the Lucchese. These are two stacks of rock emerging from the sea, right in front of the coast of the island of Sant'Antioco.
In the late afternoon we reach the beach called La Caletta, located on the west coast of the island. The name of the region? very ancient and derives from the fact that the cove was a base of support for the ancient Phoenician, Punic and Roman navigators who used it to spread their ships with pitch to waterproof them.
In the evening we settle down with the car near the Capo Sandalo lighthouse, the most? western Italy. It is located on the Punta di Capo Sandalo in one of the most? unspoiled island, where by the way? there is a protected oasis of Lipu (the Madagascar hawk migrates to this area). A path in fair condition allows you to go down to the sea. And from here we witness a wonderful sunset.
Island of San Pietro- Scivu (200 km)
We are headed towards the beach of the Tonnara which? reachable along the dirt road that descends from the town of Calasetta towards Punta Maggiore. Path ? very scenic? definitely worth a mountain bike ride.
We walk along the panoramic SP 83 which passes through Fontanamare and Nebida. Along the route of the "panoramic", access road that runs along the steep rocky coast,? Is it possible to stop in the pitches and admire the unparalleled beauty of the coast more? ancient of Europe. From here ? possible to admire a group of stacks that rise from the sea in all their majesty, including the famous "Sugar Loaf" which with its 133 meters high? the rock more? high of Europe. A breathtaking environment unique in the world!
The beach of Scivu is part of one of the most? beautiful of the coast, little known and difficult to reach, fascinating and evocative because of the practically intact nature in which? immersed and the lack of any type of settlement in its vicinity. The beach ? about three kilometers long and cut in two by a small stretch of cliff, a paradise for fishermen. It is made up of very fine sand defined as "talking", due to the dull noise that you can? hear walking in it.
The atmosphere? splendid at any time of the day, and at any time, in summer as in winter; the moment pi? seductive? at sunset when, under the effect of the setting sun, the sand, the surrounding sandstone walls and the sea are tinged with red.
Scivu - Porto Mandriola (164 km)
We reach Piscinas along the road that from Arbus passes through the ancient mining villages of Ingurtosu and Naracauli and ends with seven kilometers of dirt road along the rivulet of Rio Naracauli.
Ingurtosu? was, together with Montevecchio, the seat of one of the most? important mines from Sardinia. Did the mine start? his business? in 1855 and at the beginning of the twentieth century it reached its maximum expansion. In the mining village there was the management building, called "The castle", built around 1870 in a neo-medieval style in imitation of a German palace.
The immense dunes, which extend for more? of a kilometer inland on the mouth of the Rio Piscinas, are a unique spectacle in the whole of Sardinia that have earned this locality? the nickname of "Sardinian Sahara". The very high dunes, the most? high in Europe, they reach even a hundred meters in height and occupy a continuously changing surface under the action of atmospheric agents and, above all, of the strong mistral. The only building present? a former depot of the mining railway transformed into a unique and exclusive hotel. Hotel Le Dune, open all year round.
We head north passing by Torre di Flumentorgiu and reaching the beautiful Oristano, whose numerous churches deserve a stop. Continuing to San Giovanni di Sinis I finally meet a wonderful thermal wind that allows me a splendid kitesurf outing, right next to the city? Phoenician - Punic of Tharros, one of the most? important of Sardinia. For the night we settle in Porto Mandriola (Putzu Iddu) directly on the beach.
Porto Mandriola - Capo Comino (200 km)
We come to S'Archittu di Santa Caterina in the coastal region of Montiferru. Its cliff? articulated in spectacular promontories and coves and? the symbolic image of the area. Being close to the sea and a few meters from a small bay? destination every year of a large number of diving enthusiasts who challenge each other at the flight of angel pi? beautiful from the tip of the arch.
To return to Olbia we have to cross the region from coast to coast. We make a first stop for lunch on the shores of Lake Omodeo, in the Barigadu region. It is one of the most artificial reservoirs? greats of Italy. To Ul? Tirso, the imposing Santa Chiara dam blocks the course of the river. At the time of its construction, the dam was considered a gigantic work, while the basin that was formed? long had the primacy of pi? largest artificial lake in Europe.
In the early afternoon we reach the beach of Osalla where a huge pine forest of Mediterranean pines closes the beach behind us, for a length of a few kilometers and large pines push up to the sand. An idyllic place to spend the day. Towards the evening we settle down at the Capo Comino beach, characterized by fine white sand, surrounded by pink rocks and sandy dunes with low juniper bushes. The color of the water varies from turquoise to cobalt blue.
Capo Comino - Olbia (70 km)
On the last day at our disposal we spend the morning in peaceful relaxation on the beach of Capo Comino. After lunch we head towards the beach of Santa Lucia and then to Cala d'Ambra, located east of the town of San Teodoro, close to the Lu Casteddu hill. It is a small and intimate beach, especially popular with tourists for its pleasant and restful environment. Pi? later we reach the splendid Brandinchi beach, with the Tavolara in the background. Its crystal clear waters earned it the nickname of Tahiti. The place ? splendid and, despite the cold water I decide to take a bath with the short-sleeved summer suit.
Leaving the island leaves a feeling of emptiness, of loss. IS? something that takes your stomach and doesn't want you to leave. IS? ap? like the sickness of Africa of the great travelers of the past. An ancestral feeling that will surely force us? to come back ...