DALMATIA (Croatia) -1a stage: Split-Trogir

Who I am
Lluis Enric Mayans

wikipedia.org, lonelyplanet.com

Dalmatia? one of the most? beautiful Croatian regions and the most popular tourist destination popular. The Dalmatian region? located in southern Croatia, from the coast of the Adriatic Sea to the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina. The heart of Dalmatia? Split (Split); but are there also other cities? of great importance and beauty such as Zadar (Zadar), Trogir (Tra?), Sibenik (? ibenik), Makarska and Dubrovnik (Ragusa).

Many resorts in Dalmatia are included in the Unesco heritage, such as Diocletian's palace in Split, the plain in Stari Grad on the island of Hvar, the city? old town of Dubrovnik, the old town of Trogir. Dalmatia? famous in particular for its fascinating, typically Mediterranean nature, exquisite food, renowned wines and mild climate. Dalmatia is not? only sea and coast, but also history and ancient testimonies. Our trip wants above all to discover its historical riches.

1 day

25 May

We leave from Rome Fiumicino with a Vueling flight departing at 9.30 am directed to Split. Having to get to? airport at 7:00 we stayed in Rome with alarm clock at 4:00 and transfer at 5:00? .NO COMMENT!

We arrive in Split at 10:45 am expected from? driver dell? car booked by? Italy that has patiently waited for us as the formalities? dell? airport have dwelt a bit? too much! We arrive at? maisonette or apartamani as it is called here which turns out to be truly delightful. Ground floor, therefore very comfortable, and very tastefully furnished. The owner Marina turns out to be an affable and helpful person. Luggage storage, shower and immediately on the go. Immediately at? tourist office to inform us about the city? and then we go into the historic center. Its narrow streets full of bars, emporiums with an uninterrupted buzz make it lively and picturesque. A pleasant surprise? orchestra of children who perform for the pleasure of tourists but also for the locals. We also encounter a characteristic waterfall fountain. We flow into Piazza della Repubblica located west of the seafront. Similar to the Piazza di San Marco in Venice from three sides? closed by Neo-Renaissance buildings with arcades to which it owes its Croatian name of Prokurative, commonly used. The square ? open only to the south, offering a beautiful view of the harbor. We get to the dock and see a boat like? Caravel? which carries out sightseeing tours along the coast and to the neighboring islands. IS? dinner time and we stop at a restaurant where we consume a? excellent steak and we taste the excellent Croatian beer Karlovacko, not for nothing c? ? a karl in the name! . Then we walk along the seafront or on the famous? Riva? which began to take on its present appearance two centuries ago, at the time of the Napoleonic occupation, when Marshal Marmont ruled Dalmatia. Today the waterfront? become the? living room of the city?, the most? known and the pi? important public space and offers a spectacular scenography with the background of the southern facade of the Diocletian's Palace and the houses built in the following centuries on its western side but also on the palace? alas? !. La Riva today? a pedestrian paradise full of bars and restaurants, which has always been the stage of city life where various cultural events take place, city festivals (such as the wild Carnival), sports celebrations but also mass gatherings with a political background. Splendid by day, when the sun goes down it turns into the queen of the night.

Let's go back to? hotel, sorry home, going up via Marmontova from the name of Napoleon's marshal, Marmont, what deserves? to be dedicated to the pi? beautiful city street for the contribution it had given to the urbanization of the cities? Dalmatian. It houses the first cinema in the city, the Karaman. There is also the fish market, one of the few in the world without flies thanks to the smell of sulfur coming from the nearby thermal baths with sulphurous waters. In this street there are also two beautiful secessionist buildings. Have we arrived home?. Well deserved rest!

2 day

26 May

Today we plan to visit Trogir

Trogir (Tra?), One of the jewels of the Dalmatian coast,? a small town? located 20 km west of the city? of Split, located on an islet separated by a bridge from the mainland and another from? Clovo island. Founded by the Greeks with the name of Tragyrion (Island of the goats) at the turn of the fourth and third centuries, in the first century AD it became a Roman municipality with the name of Tragurium Civium Romanorum united with Salona.

After the fall of the Roman Empire in the th century it became an autonomous municipality and in the th century the Croats settled there and began the cultural development.

Since 1997? World heritage of? UNESCO.

We go to the port along via Marmontova and arrive at the extremity? west of the Riva, in the square where there are the Church and the Convent of San Francesco, erected in the locality? early Christian next to the tomb and church of San Felice, martyr from the time of Diocletian. In the 3000th century the church became the home of the minor friars of San Francesco. The church preserves some objects of great value including the Gothic crucifix from the early th century, the work of the painter Bla? Juraj Trogiranin, and the sarcophagus with a representation of the Red Sea passage dating back to the Roman period. Next to the church? located the Convent of the Franciscans with the beautiful cloister of the thirteenth century and a rich library that collects about pieces including some dating back to the sixteenth century. The church and the convent house the graves of illustrious Split citizens such as Marko Maruli?, Father of Croatian literature, and Ante Trumbic, one of the greatest Croatian politicians, whose sarcophagus? work of the famous sculptor Ivan Me? you find ?. We walk along the seafront to the pier where we will take the? Bura Line? that in less than a? will take us now? in Trogir. At the same pier where, however, c? the building of the Port Authority,? docked the? pseudocaravella? we saw yesterday! Along the way we see dinghies moored that will take bathers to the nearby islands and stands of artisans who make colorful umbrellas

We start from Split, the navigation and the landscape are very pleasant. A stop in Slatine a small tourist fishing village, located on the northeastern part of the island of ?iovo, just 8 km from Trogir.

Once in Trogir we cross the bridge and enter the city? from the Porta Marina.

Walking along characteristic alleys we arrive at the Piazza della Loggia and the tower of the? Clock (piazza Giovanni Paolo II). A pleasant surprise: in front of the? building of the Municipality distribute dishes of stew and risotto with seafood! So lucky! In fact we were hungry! Do we miss the music? But no, on the Loggia Croatian singers perform in choirs a? Cappella ?. They seem like alpine choirs to me but?. I find out what? traditional local music, the klapa, a harmonically complex vocal form, from five to ten voices, sung mainly by male voices.

Visit to the Cathedral of San Lorenzo blocked in the twelfth century and more? times reworked,? a mixture of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. It is a three-nave basilica with a vestibule above which is the bell tower which? the building pi? high and characteristic of Trogir. It is a forty-seven meter high tower built in three different styles over the course of nearly four centuries. The thirteenth-century portal? work of Radovan. On the sides of the portal stand the statues of two lions (symbol of Venice) and, above them, the figures of Adam and Eve, the first example of a nude in Dalmatian sculpture. At the end of the portico there is another valuable sculptural structure, the baptistery, built in 1464 by Andrija Ale? I.

Interesting ? also the treasury of the cathedral, which houses an ivory triptych and several illuminated manuscripts from the Middle Ages. The beautiful th century Chapel of Blessed Giovanni Orsini? a masterpiece of the European Renaissance. We do not miss the climb up the bell tower between the deafening sound of the bell. When you get to the top, does it stop?. Luckily!

We go down from the tower and go around again to discover characteristic corners such as the Cippico palace, the monastery and the Church of San Domenico with the statue of Agostino Casotti nearby, also known as Agostino di Tra? (in Croatian: Augustin Ka? oti?), was a Dalmatian religious belonging to the Dominican order; he became bishop of Zagreb and then of Lucera; ? venerated as blessed by the Catholic Church. Last visit the Kamerlengo Fortress, built between the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries in the western part of the island, to strengthen the defenses of the city? in the fifteenth century by the Venetians as a naval base in this part of the Adriatic. In the 1420th century the Genoese had built a nine-sided tower as the base of their fleet on the Adriatic. Immediately after the occupation of Trogir in , the Venetians enlarged the tower, transforming it into a mighty fortress which still bears the marks of the various stages of construction today. Its name derives from the state official, the chamberlain, "camerarius", in charge of economic - financial affairs.

A walk along the promenade and then back by boat back to Split.

A visit to Brace Radic this square, perhaps the most? beautiful city, to the citizens of Split? pi? familiar under his unofficial name Trg Bra? e Radi? (square of the Radi brothers?) but? some fruit ?. Its "familiar" name derives from the fact that it was once home to the lively and colorful market where women from the surrounding villages came to sell their fruit. There are several landmarks that decorate this not so. large square together with exclusive bars, restaurants and shops. The pi? great ? certainly the Venetian octagonal tower (Torre della Marina), the rest of the former fortress, built in the th century for the defense of the city. In front of the tower? a magnificent th century mansion of the old Milesi family with a spectacular Baroque facade, one of the best examples of this style in all of Dalmatia. Right in front of it stands the monument to the father of Croatian literature, the citizen of Split Marko Maruli?, One of the most? important philosophers and intellectuals of the fifteenth century. The author of the monument, so? like many others in the city,? Ivan Me? Do you find ?. We have dinner in advance and then end the day walking along the Riva at dusk? even more? attractive and enjoying great ice cream. We note the large number of ice cream shops that offer excellent ice cream and dozens and dozens of flavors! If you come to Croatia you will certainly notice it!

3 day

27 May

We enter the Diocletian's Palace from the Porta Aurea where are you? the statue of Gregory of Nin or Nona (Croatian: Grgur Ninski) who was a Croatian bishop in the th century. The reason why this statue? pi? famous? his left big toe which is said to bring luck if touched. From so much touching? became so? polished until it shines.

The Cathedral of San Doimo

It was originally the mausoleum of? emperor Diocletian. In the mid? from the seventh century, the mausoleum of the emperor, persecutor of Christians, became a cathedral in which the places of honor were reserved for the altars with the relics of San Doimo and Sant'Anastasio, martyrs executed in nearby Salona. Structure ? considered the most? ancient Catholic cathedral in the world that has not undergone substantial transformations over time apart from the construction of the Romanesque bell tower (57th-th century) meters high. el? addition of the thirteenth-century wooden choir. In the sacristy, now the museum of the cathedral, many and important works are preserved by? art such as, liturgical objects in gold and silver, ancient manuscripts, medieval icons and sacred vestments. We also visit the crypt. Once we enter the narrow tunnel, we find ourselves inside where there are various spaces and large stones piled with a central well and continuing we find the statue of Santa Lucia. The crypt? dedicated to Saint Lucia of Syracuse, protector of the blind.

The nearby Temple of Jupiter, defined as one of the most? beautiful monuments of Europe? by archaeologist Robert Adam,? a rectangular-shaped temple, originally dedicated to the cult of Jupiter and later transformed into a baptistery. Originally it had a portico supported by columns, of which only one remains today. On the outside ? post a granite sphinx that was brought from Egypt in ancient times; also splendid the statue of San Giovanni Battista in? interior made by Ivan Me? trov ?, the pi? great Croatian sculptor of the twentieth century. A quick snack and we resume our tour.

Diocletian's palace

Overlooking the harbor,? a magnificent example of Roman architecture. Although it has undergone numerous changes over time, it has retained its ancient charm and? still well preserved. Diocletian's palace? pi? similar to a small citadel consisting of two intersecting roads, forming four separate zones. Its original function was a mixture of imperial residence and military fortress; today inside the building you can count more? of 200 buildings, many of which are inhabited or used as shops, bars or restaurants. Built with the splendid white Brac stone and other precious marbles, which create a striking contrast with the blue of the sea in the background, the palace? a labyrinth in which? a pleasure to get lost, exploring every corner and glimpse.

The palace ? 215 meters long and 180 meters wide.

The peristyle measures 35 meters. for 13 mt.

The surface of the building measures 31000 square meters.

The walls are 26 meters high.

At the meeting point between the walls and the main road axes, the four doors opened, flanked by octagonal towers: the Porta Aurea to the north, the Porta Argentea to the east, the Porta Ferrea to the west and the Porta Aenea or Bronzea to South, towards the sea.

About 3000 people currently live inside the building

Very impressive is the Vestibulum, a circular entrance hall, whose dome? without cover. Right here we witness the? performance of a choir. On the lower level we find countless stalls selling everything, souvenirs at will. but also objects of a certain value.

We then reach the basement, the so-called? Diocletian's cellars ?, which were support environments for the apartments on the upper floor intended for the emperor's residence. The? Cellars? perfectly preserved, are today of fundamental interest why? they inform us about what the upper floors should have been like, today destroyed or upset by renovations. In some rooms there are finds that excavations have returned, such as a medieval oil mill, an almost intact sarcophagus with a dedication, a wooden beam attributed to the time of construction of the palace and a decorated slab. Many scenes from the popular Game of Thrones series were shot in these environments.

Let's go back to the peristyle what? a swarm of people and? Centurions? that like the Colosseum in Rome allow themselves to be photographed by tourists. The bell tower of the cathedral (57m)? the "P? original medieval Dalmatian construction, begun in the th century. At the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries the bell tower was completely restored and somewhat modified. It is worth climbing the steps leading to the top of the bell tower to enjoy the beautiful panorama of the whole city.

Do not miss the climb to the bell tower from which you can enjoy a splendid view.

Let's go home to rest!

Before dinner we go to Piazza del Popolo, the business center of the city? in the fifteenth century. Where are there valuable buildings such as the Palazzo Cambi in Venetian Gothic and the Renaissance Palazzo Comunale erected in the first half? of the fifteenth century. With a three-arched loggia on the ground floor a beautiful mullioned window on the upper floor. In the background the Porta Ferrea and the bell tower of the Church of the Madonna del Campanile the most? ancient city (1081). Does he still greet his city today? with the bells of the Renaissance clock. After dinner we don't miss the evening at the Peristyle For the inhabitants of Split, the peristyle of Diocletian's palace? the center of Split and the world. ? the central square of the building is located three steps more? lower than the surrounding streets. For its beauty and good acoustics, a rather unusual feature for an open-air place, the peristyle? used as a stage for theatrical performances of ancient works or classical and lyric music concerts. We attend a performance by a musician who entertains night visitors, including us.

Returning home along the Riva promenade we come across a? another musical performance but this time rock included agitated girls in the audience with strange costumes. Mah!

4 day

28 May

Last day in Split. We walk on the Riva and we notice a banquet that offers a tour with a red semi-submarine (I preferred it? Yellow ?? remembering the Beatles). Intrigued, we embark together with a lady with her children and after a short distance offshore we go down already? below deck in an environment equipped with portholes. In truth? the backdrop not? the Caribbean one but it was a? experience to do. IS? pi? a? attraction for children but we still are! We have lunch, we rest and then on an electric car we go to the bus terminal from where we will leave at 16:00 for Sibenik. The trip, aboard an excellent bus of the? Cazmatrans? , lasts just 1 hour and 30.

L? hotel, there Hotel Jadran, is a few meters from the bus terminal,? in a strategic position to visit the city, overlooking the sea and? very welcoming! What more did we want? Patrol tour, dinner at the restaurant of? hotel, stroll along the seafront and then go to sleep! We will have a busy day tomorrow!

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