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    10 Things to eat in Viareggio and where

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    Martí Micolau

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    A beautiful seaside town, Viareggio was originally a fishing village, therefore the typical cuisine has fish as its basic element.
    In this area of ​​the Tyrrhenian Sea blue fish is widespread, but it is easy to find squid, sole, clams, mantis shrimp, turbot and cicadas on the Viareggio tables. Here's what to eat during your stay in Viareggio.


    1. Cacciucco Viareggino
    2. Spaghetti with niches
    3. Spaghetti with cutlery
    4. Sweet shoe
    5. Matuffi with razor clams
    6. Trabaccolara
    7. Cèe in the pan
    8. Tordelli
    9. Cenci of Viareggio
    10. Rice puddings
    11. Where to eat in Viareggio: best restaurants, typical bars and street food
    12. User questions and comments

    1 - Cacciucco Viareggino

    Widespread in the sea areas, the Viareggino cacciucco differs from the others for the raw materials that are strictly poor fish, such as hen, cuttlefish, cicadas, scorpion fish and mullet to which polyps and dogfish are sometimes added.

    The fish is cooked in a tomato-based soup to which red wine, onion and parsley is added e accompanied by toasted bread.

    • Recommended to: lunch and dinner
    • Average cost: € 12,00
    • Main ingredients: fish such as gallinelle, cuttlefish, cicadas, scorpion fish and mullet, octopus and dogfish; tomato sauce, red wine, onion.

    2 - Spaghetti with niches

    The niches are none other than clams or clams, small molluscs that live in sandy bottoms.
    With this fish, which is cooked in its shell, the Viareggio season the spaghetti which must be white and sautéed in a pan with garlic, oil and chilli.
    A simple dish but very tasty to which someone adds pieces of fresh tomato.

    • Recommended to: lunch and dinner
    • Average cost: € 10,00
    • Main ingredients: spaghetti, nicchi (cockles), garlic, oil and chilli

    3 - Spaghetti with cutlery

    Known in the rest of Italy as razor clams, these molluscs are called coltellacci because they have an elongated shape similar to that of a knife.
    Knives are fished on the beaches or on the rocks after storm surges e they are cooked in white or with a tomato sauce and are used to season spaghetti.
    Their flavor is strong and intense and you will feel like you are in the sea.

    • Recommended to: lunch and dinner
    • Average cost: € 13,00
    • Main ingredients: coltellacci (clams), spaghetti, tomato

    4 - Sweet shoe

    This traditional dish it is usually served at the end of a meal, or eaten as a snack or as a snack and is a combination of flavors.
    It is a zucchini-based pie cut into thin slices mixed with eggs, butter, baking powder, sugar, flour and milk and baked in the oven.
    In the Tuscan hinterland there is also a savory variant.

    • Recommended to: dessert or snack
    • Average cost: € 3,00 per slice
    • Main ingredients: zucchini, sugar, flour, eggs, yeast, milk

    5 - Matuffi with razor clams

    This dish of the Versilian tradition, knows some variations, with meat or fish.

    In Viareggio he prepares with the razor clams, after being scalded in water they are cleaned from the shell and added to tomato, celery and carrot sauce.

    This gravy is then poured on corn polenta (matuffi) which, however, must be a little liquid.
    There is also a version in which a meat sauce is used instead of fish.

    • Recommended to: Lunch or dinner
    • Average cost: € 8,00
    • Main ingredients: razor clams, corn polenta, tomato

    6 - Trabaccolara

    This dish of Viareggio origin owes its name to the trabaccolo, the boat used by the fishermen of san benedetto del tronto between the 20s and 30s.
    They cooked this dish with fish scraps that remained unsold at the market, such as gurnard, redfish and weeverers.
    Fish is added to the tomato sauce and spaghetti is seasoned.
    Even today this specialty is offered in restaurants and homes in Viareggio.

    • Recommended to: Lunch Dinner
    • Average cost: € 8,00
    • Main ingredients: gurnard, scorpion fish and weever, spaghetti, tomato

    7 - Cèe in the pan

    Un typical dish of the tradition which was originally prepared with the fry of eels, or babies also called blind, which once were fished while going up the mouth of the Burlamacca river.

    Since this fishing is prohibited today, they are used the breeding blinds, which are cooked in the pan with garlic, oil and sage and at the end add a grating of lemon zest.

    • Recommended to: lunch and dinner
    • Average cost: € 14,00
    • Main ingredients: blind, garlic, oil, sage, lemon

    8 - Tordelli

    Typical dish from Viareggio, they are gods large fresh pasta ravioli semolina not too thin and raw in the shape of a crescent.
    The filling is based on minced meat, chard and spices such as pepper, nutmeg and wild thyme.

    Once cooked in salted boiling water they come seasoned with a tasty meat sauce.
    The name Tordelli with the "d", really wants to underline the richness and delicacy of this specialty loved by young and old.

    • Recommended to: lunch and dinner
    • Average cost: € 11,00
    • Main ingredients: semolina pasta, meat, chard, spices, ragù

    9 - Cenci of Viareggio

    This sweet typical specialty of the Viareggio carnival, called in other regions "chatter", is found on the tables during the weeks preceding Lent.

    The dough made with flour, eggs, lemon zest and sugar is rolled with a rolling pin in order to have a thin dough which is then given the rectangle shape.

    Once obtained, the "rags" are fried in boiling oil until golden brown and sprinkled with sugar.

    • Recommended to: dessert, snack
    • Average cost: € 4,00 per hectogram
    • Main ingredients: eggs, flour, sugar, oil for frying, powdered sugar

    10 - Rice puddings

    The Rolling Stones, Stefania Sandrelli and Pieraccioni are just some of the admirers of this particular dessert that is served in many pastry shops in Viareggio.

    Although the original 800th century recipe is jealously guarded, rice puddings are delicacies a based on butter, flour, milk, rice, eggs and granulated sugar.
    The ingredients after being processed separately are assembled, left to rest for some time and baked in the oven.

    • Recommended to: snack, snack, dessert
    • Average cost: € 5,00 per piece
    • Main ingredients: eggs, rice, butter, milk, flour, sugar

    Where to eat in Viareggio: best restaurants, typical bars and street food

    Eating in Viareggio is not a problem at all, indeed you will be spoiled for choice among luxurious restaurants, typical trattorias and bars with cuisine.
    Often the menus are based on fresh fish, but you can also find meat, vegetarian and intolerant dishes.
    In the area of ​​the port and the Darsena you will find numerous clubs, but also in the historic center there is no lack of restaurants and taverns.

    Here are the best places to eat in Viareggio:

    1 - Trattoria la Darsena

    • Description: casual place with wooden furnishings serving seafood specialties and local catch of the day
    • specialty: spaghetti with clams, trabaccolara and fish ravioli
    • Average price: from € 40,00 per person
    • Address: Via Virgilio - Get directions; Tel 0584 632942; Website

    2 - The Baracchina sul Molo

    • Description: well-kept restaurant with wooden ceilings and a terrace overlooking the dock, serving mainly fish specialties cooked in the Viareggio style
    • specialty: seafood appetizers, trabaccolara, fried fish
    • Average price: from € 25,00 per person
    • Address: piazzetta Golfo Aranci, Get directions; Tel 0584 31583; Facebook page

    3 - Galliano pastry shop

    • Description: historic café-pastry shop in one of the most evocative corners of Viareggio, offers exquisite desserts and aperitifs
    • specialty: rice puddings, carnival rags, focaccia
    • Average price: from € 4,00 per person
    • Address: viale Guglielmo Marconi, 127, Get directions; Tel 0584 50015; Website

    4 - Bar Trattoria Nostromo

    • Description: small and welcoming trattoria that stands out for its typical home cooking based on fresh products from the sea and the land.
    • specialty: sea amatriciana, sea carbonara and trabaccolara
    • Average price: from € 23,00 per person
    • Address: via Michele Coppino, 90, Get directions; Tel 0584 632429; Website

    5 - Da Miro restaurant

    • Description: seafood dishes, even raw, and more than 700 wine labels served in a simple and welcoming place with attentive staff and available to the customer
    • specialty: taglierini with scampi and black truffle, tordelli with ragu, spaghetti alla trabaccolara
    • Average price: from € 30,00 per person
    • Address: via Michele Coppino, 289, Get directions; Tel 0584 384065; Website
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